Sceptre Mk 2

These are my plans of the Sceptre Mk 2 kite. All I ask in return for using these plans is that you take the time to sign my guest book. The plans show how to build a kite with a 1.8 mtr span and a 2.7 mtr span. The construction method for both versions is exactly the same, the text on this page mainly describes how to build the 1.8 mtr version. If you would like the plans for the 2.7 mtr. version then simply click on the link at the bottom of the page. If there is any part of the construction you do not understand, or you need help in any way, then feel free to contact me.

The Concept:
The idea was to design a kite that would be simple and quick to build, but would fly as well as any commercially available kite. The usual curved leading and trailing edges of this type of kite have been eliminated and replaced with straight lined edges, this cuts down the number of profile patterns that need to be used, in fact the centre seven profiles of the Sceptre Mk2 use the same profile pattern. The main difference between the Mk 2 and the Mk 1 is the bridling, and also the plans are much easier to follow. This kite is a power kite and caution needs to be used in high winds.

Click here for Sceptre 1.8 plan page

Building Instructions

Material:
Ripstop nylon. Approx 7sq. mtrs

Preparation:
It would be useful to cut some of the templates from 1 mm thick cardboard. All pieces can be hot cut or cut with scissors. No seam or hem allowances are shown in these plans.

Profiles:
The profiles are the ribs or formers that are sewn inside the kite between the top and bottom skins. The flat bottom of the profile is sewn to the bottom skin while the curved top is attached to the top skin. The angled leading edge is left unsewn to create an opening at the front that allows air to enter and inflate the kite.
See the main plan page for the profile lengths needed.
The plan for the profile (Fig.1) is drawn in percentages. To convert the given percentages into actual measures, use a calculator to divide each profile length by 100, then multiply this figure by the percentage given.
Cut out all profiles allowing for hems and seams. I use 5mm for seams and 10mm for a double folded hem. Cut out holes for inflation in all but the end profiles. Hem the leading edge as shown.

Bridle loops:
Cut a long strip of material 2.5 cm wide. Fold one edge two thirds across the width and crease. Now fold the opposite edge over to the already folded edge and crease again. Sew the whole strip closed along the loose edge. From this cut as many 5cm strips as you can. You will need 26 strips in all. Fold in half end to end before sewing into place.

Bottom Skin:
The bottom skin is made up of nine panels, the three centre panels are rectangular in shape and are the same size, the outer three are tapered. Using the diagram on the main plan page as a guide, draw the half sail plan on a large sheet of paper eg. decorators lining paper. Next, cut out each panel from the paper along the solid lines.
Transfer these panels onto card and use these templates to draw the panels onto your material. Use different colours for each panel to build up your own pattern. Cut out each panel and again allow for hems and seams. Draw the broken lines down the centre of each panel.
Mark on each panel the position of the bridle loops, the measures given are the distances from the leading edge.
Sew these panels together with the bridle loops between the seams. See "Construction Detail A" on the main plan page.
Now make up the winglets, and attach these along with the outer profiles to the outer edges of the sail. See "Construction Detail B" on the main plan page.
Sew the rest of the profiles to the sail working from left to right, this avoids having too much material going through the machine at one time.
Fig.2 shows the completed bottom skin.


Top Skin:
The top skin can be made as one full piece, or two half pieces, there is no need to make separate panels.
Using the diagram on the main plan page as a guide, draw the half sail plan on a large sheet of paper. Trace this onto your material, use white material as this will not affect the colours used on the bottom skin when the finished kite is in the air, draw the sewing lines but do not draw the trailing edge at this point (the reason for this will become clear later). When cutting out allow for seams and hems and extend the trailing edge by 10cm.
Hem the leading edge.
Begin sewing the profiles to the top skin, again working from left to right.
Sew the last profile so that the seam is on the inside. To do this you will need to roll up the kite from the finished end then fold the loose profile and the top skin back over and round to enclose the rolled up kite. Sew them together along the seams. The rest of the kite will now be contained within the inside out cell. Turn the roll right side out.
Now lay the kite on a large flat surface, top side up, and trace the trailing edge from the bottom skin to the top skin. Cut off the excess material and close up the trailing edge with a hem or seam.

Bridle Jig:
Before starting the bridle you may first want to make a simple bridle jig.
You will need a length of wood around 2.5cm thick, 5cm wide and 120cm long. About 2cm from the end hammer in a 5cm nail leaving about 2.5cm sticking out. From the nail, glue or tape a dressmakers measuring tape along the length of the wood. See Fig.3.

Bridle:
Use 50lb braided nylon.
To make bridle lines A, B & C, cut two lengths of line - the first is 10cm longer than the C line, the second is double the length of the first. Double the longer length of line, and holding it with the doubled end at the top, allow the two ends to hang down. Take the other shorter line by one end, and add this to the doubled end of the longer line, tie an overhand knot forming a loop 3cm long.
You should now have three loose ends at the bottom. Slip the looped end over the nail on the jig, and lay the three lengths of line along the tape measure. With a marker pen mark each of the three lines according to the lengths shown on the plan. Allow an extra 2 cm (this is for the knot you use to attach the bridle to the bridle loop) and tie a knot.
Trim off the excess line.
Bridle line No.5 is a single line with a loop at one end.
Attach these to the kite as shown in Fig.4.
Bring together all the loops in the left hand set of bridle lines and using a 25cm length of 150-200 lb braided nylon line join all the bridle loops together with a simple knot. At the other end of this line tie a single overhand knot and use this to attach your flying lines.
Do the same with the right hand bridle set, attach your flying lines, and your kite is ready to fly.

Fine tuning
Some fine tuning of your finished kite may be required. If your kite flies too low shorten the front set of bridle lines (the "A" lines) slightly, if your kite tends to fly over and beyond your head then you should shorten the back bridle lines (the "C" lines).

Plans and Text by David Holt.