A Perfect Bowed Cross Spar
How To Make It From Wooden Dowel And Kite Line
This
page shows you how to make a bowed cross spar for an MBK Dowel kite. Of
course, these instructions could also be applied to a range of other
spar materials and situations. The photo up there is the finished
horizontal spar for my first Dowel bowed kite, the Dowel Diamond. In
the instructions below, the letters DL stand for Dowel Length. For example, 0.5DL means 'half the length of the dowel'.
Attaching The Cross Spar Bow LineHere
is the procedure I used to make a bowed cross spar, after the dowel had
been cut to length and the tips rounded off with a wood file. Also, a
mark had been drawn all around the spar at the exact mid-point, which
is needed to balance the finished spar. - By eye, see if there is already a slight bow in the spar. If so, make a small mark exactly 0.05DL from one tip, on the convex side of the dowel. If not, just make the mark anywhere, 0.5DL from the tip.
- Make
another similar mark at the other end of the dowel, ensuring that the 2
marks line up. For example, if one mark is exactly facing the floor, so
should the other one.
- Using the edge of your wood file,
put a notch into the wood at one of the marks. Strength is not an issue
out near the tip of the spar, so you can make the notch fairly deep.. Up to a 1/4 of the diameter of the dowel is OK.
- Do
exactly the same for the other end of the dowel. Like you did for the
marks, make sure the 2 notches are facing the same direction.
- Take
a length of flying line 0.6DL long and tie a Simple Overhand Loop into
one end, making sure there is ample room for a short piece of dowel to
fit through the loop.
- Tie the other end of the line around the
dowel, seating the line in one of the notches. Use 3 Half-Hitches.
Slide them down tight, positioning the knot on the opposite side of the
dowel from the notch. The loop should just reach the exact center of the spar.
- Take
another length of flying line, also about 0.6DL long. Take a 0.02DL
length of dowel, notch it in the middle with the file and tie the line
to it. Just like before, use Half-Hitches. Let's call this the Toggle.
- Thread
the Toggle through the overhand loop of the first line. Bend the spar
until both ends are a fraction more than 0.1DL above the table, or
whatever the recommended amount of bow is. Loop the line through the
remaining notch, wind it round 4 times and tie off with 3 half-hitches.
It took me several attempts to succeed - so persevere. This is
definitely the hardest part! It's like stringing a bow.
- Double-check
that the required amount of bow remains in the dowel, by putting the
spar next to a straight line and measuring from the line to each tip.
The edge of a table works well, with the bow line parallel to the edge.
A
non-symmetrical bow in the cross spar will show up sooner or later as
wind strength increases. The kite will tend to lean in one direction or
the other, severely limiting how high it can fly. Very
annoying! Balance is not quite so important, but it also has an effect.
Why not take a few minutes to eliminate both these potential pit-falls
before the kite has its first flight...
Checking Cross Spar Curvature
- While the spar is still bowed, lay it down on a smooth flat surface. Concrete or cement is ideal.
- Using a piece of colored chalk, trace around the tips and all along the convex side
of the spar. Keep the spar firmly in place with your foot in the
middle. Trace lightly so nothing moves, and don't worry about tracing
the area under your foot.
- Swap the tips around, carefully
lining them up with the chalk marks at each end. The curvature of the
spar should follow the chalk line you drew.
- Take another piece of chalk, of a different color. Again, except for the bit under your foot, trace along the entire convex side of the spar.
- Move
the spar away from the chalk lines and look carefully. If one side is
bending even a little more than the other, it will be clear! Parts of
the first chalk line will show, above and below the second line, as in
the diagram above.
- Figure out which side of the spar is bending less than the other, from what you have just done.
- While the spar is still under tension, file up and down the concave
side of the dowel, taking off a small amount of wood from the stiffer
side. Do the chalk test all over again. Repeat until the 2 chalk lines
line up much better. They will never line up exactly, since the correction is being done very crudely, but you should be able to get a big improvement!
Note:
If no cement is handy, a table-top and colored pencils could be used.
That is, if you don't mind erasing pencil marks from the table
afterwards!
Checking Cross Spar Balance- While
the spar is still bowed, place the concave side on a sharp edge, right
over the center mark. That mark had better be dead-center! Double check
it if you like, with the spar out straight of course. A cutlery knife
is sharp enough to do this balance check.
- If one end of the
spar droops a bit, get your wood file and remove some wood from the
heavier tip. File on the concave side of the dowel, between the
bow-line attachment and the tip.
- Keep checking the balance until it gets hard to tell which end of the spar is heavier. That will be quite accurate enough!
Note: Just adding a little insulation tape on the lighter tip might be easier, but why add weight un-necessarily? All other things being equal, the lighter the kite, the better!
The Final TouchRemove
the Toggle from its loop, and check that every Half Hitch is tight, in
all 3 sets. That's one at each end of the cross spar, plus the Toggle.
With the dowel now straight again, put a generous drop of glue
on every set of Half-Hitches to secure them permanently. It's a good
idea to slip a piece of paper under each knot to catch any excess glue. Hope you found these instructions on making a bowed cross spar handy!
Last updated: 22 Jan 2009
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